The Traka: Girona’s Gravel Paradise
- James Ion
- Apr 30
- 12 min read
Words James Ion - Photography: ©Gravel Earth Series | ©The Traka | ©Photographer (credited)
Dawn of a Gravel Adventure
Dawn breaks over Girona’s medieval skyline, the first light glinting off carbon frames waiting silently, patiently, to be ridden. In the predawn hush of Parc de les Ribes del Ter, riders gather under an arch emblazoned with “The Traka”, breaths forming little clouds in the cool spring air. There’s a crackle of excitement as gravel bikes jostle forward—tyres crunching on dirt, friends exchanging last nervous laughs, GPS devices queued to guide them on an epic quest. In this moment, Girona isn’t just a picturesque Catalan city; it’s the starting line of a pilgrimage. The Traka has arrived, and with it, a motley peloton of pros, amateurs, and adventure-seekers are all about to embark on a day (and night) of pure gravel glory.
The Traka is more than a race; it is not technically a race as it is billed as a “non-competitive bicycle outing”, but don't let that fool you, the pros will be racing! The Traka, though, is more than that; it’s a festival of all things cycling on Girona’s backroads and trails that has quickly earned a mythic status among cyclists. In just a few short years, this event has transformed from a local gravel grinder into what some call “the European equivalent of Unbound”, a high honour, given Unbound in Kansas is arguably the world’s biggest gravel race. Under the rising Catalan sun, one can’t help but feel that same magic here: a sense that anything can happen out on those dusty caminos before day’s end.
From Local Challenge to Gravel Earth Series Icon
Not long ago, The Traka was just an ambitious idea born in a region obsessed with cycling. Girona has long been a training haven for professional road racers, but by the late 2010s, a few visionaries wondered: Why not showcase the endless gravel paths crisscrossing this landscape? The first edition of The Traka took place only a few years back, drawing a modest pack of gravel devotees. It didn’t stay modest for long. Each year, the legend grew – riders returned home swapping stories of sparkling trails and brutal climbs, and the next year, even more showed up at Girona’s doorstep. By 2023, the event saw 2,000 riders from across 60 nations take part, tackling one of four distances on offer. The Traka had officially exploded onto the global scene.
That 2023 edition marked a turning point: The Traka became a cornerstone of the new Gravel Earth Series, serving as the opening round of an international gravel championship. This affiliation crowned The Traka as a “focal point for the European gravel scene,” now one of the series’ flagship global events. In practical terms, it meant Girona’s gravel extravaganza would attract even more of cycling’s elite. And indeed it did – the who’s who of the gravel world put The Traka on their calendars. As one account noted, the event boasts attendance by “the absolute who’s who in the gravel cycling scene” and feels like “the Met Gala of bikes” with all the top athletes and industry folks showing up. Sparkly stuff, to be sure.
With heightened prestige came record-breaking performances. Italian ultra-endurance specialist Mattia de Marchi powered through the 360 km course in under 13 hours in 2023, the first rider ever to do so – astonishing when you consider the immense route and elevation. That same year, American gravel star Amity Rockwell (a former Unbound winner) shaved over an hour off the women’s course record, finishing in just over 15 hours. Despite being a pre-race favourite, Rockwell remained humble about the challenge: “I never expect to win,” she said after conquering the 360. “In 360 km, so much can happen, and you are not in control of most of it.” Her words capture the spirit of The Traka – a race where anything can happen over such epic distance, and even the strongest must respect the unknowns of a long day in the saddle.
The Traka’s rapid rise also lured big names from other cycling disciplines into the gravel fray. Former WorldTour pros and Olympians have been spotted gritting it out on Girona’s dirt. In 2024, retired Olympic road champion Greg Van Avermaet traded asphalt for gravel and finished an impressive seventh in the 200 km event. That same weekend, Dutch sprinter Lorena Wiebes, one of the fastest on the pro road circuit, decided to swap her usual carbon aero bike for a gravel rig. Wiebes tackled the 100 km course (why not try something new after a long Spring Classics season?) and even with three flat tyres, she took the win in her category. Grinning in a dirt-splattered SD Worx jersey at the finish, Wiebes said, “It was a really good experience. I also liked the single track because it was more cyclocross style… I enjoyed it. Maybe, maybe, next year the 200.” When a Tour de France sprinter says a gravel race was fun and hints at coming back for a longer round, you know The Traka has serious allure.
Girona's Gravel Paradise Meets Gauntlet: The Traka Course
If Girona is a cyclist’s gravel paradise, The Traka’s courses are the paths to heaven – or perhaps to Hades, depending on the day. Participants have a menu of routes to choose from, each showcasing a different slice of Catalonia’s terrain. For the weekend warriors or gravel-curious, there’s a 50 km loop and a 100 km route. For the hardcore, a 200 km course offers a day’s worth of adventure. And then there’s the crown jewel: The Traka 360, a 360 km odyssey that’s the marquee challenge of the event. The numbers alone make veterans question their life choices! Roughly 5000 meters of climbing on that 360 route (think two-thirds of Everest) and a 24-hour time limit to finish. Essentially, it’s a sunrise-to-sunrise epic, a test of endurance, navigation, and willpower. If that wasn’t enough(!!?), this year sees the first ever 560! That’s right, 560 kms, it’s a delayed debut after last year's extreme weather conditions saw the event cancelled due to safety concerns, but this year it looks all set to start! (Our man on the ground, Chris Mehlman, is taking it on, so expect a full lowdown on how it was!)
What truly sets The Traka apart is the variety of terrain packed into these routes. This isn’t 300 km of straight Kansas flatland or a closed circuit—it’s a constantly changing canvas. “At The Traka, there are parts of very fast gravel, some steep climbs, long climbs, some technical stuff, so a mix of different terrains,” says Czech rider Petr Vakoč, who won the 200 km in 2023. Indeed, one moment riders might be flying in a paceline down a smooth farm track, dust swirling in their wake; the next, they’re wrestling their bikes up a rocky goat path or picking lines through a forest, tires crunching over pine needles. Singletrack sections appear out of nowhere, throwing a bit of mountain-bike flavour into the mix (to the delight of some and the terror of others). And all the while, the scenery keeps changing: golden wheat fields, olive groves, and oak forests give way to wide-open hilltops with Pyrenean peaks faint on the horizon or a glimpse of the distant Mediterranean on a clear day. It’s hard to keep your eyes on the “road” when the views are this good.
The Traka is intentionally unmarshalled in true adventure spirit – courses are unmarked, and riders navigate via GPS files. You won’t see banners at every turn; rather, participants follow their electronic bread crumbs, which only heightens the feeling of exploration. It’s just you, your fellow racers, and the route. Mind you, the organisers don’t send you off unprepared: there are feed zones, mechanical assistance points, and plenty of encouragement. But outside those aid stations, you are very much on your own in the wilds of Girona’s backcountry. “We’ll continue doing what we have been doing for years,” proclaims the Gravel Earth Series ethos, meaning keeping that self-reliant, adventurous spirit at the core. Ethics and camaraderie are key; riders are expected to help each other out if needed, and to respect the environment and locals as they pass through.
That environment can throw some curveballs. Girona’s mild climate is a big draw, but springtime in Catalonia can also mean sudden downpours. In 2023, the weather was idyllic, contributing to record times. But come 2024, the skies opened. Torrential rains in the lead-up turned sections of the course into mud baths. The organisers made the tough call to cancel the 560 km “Adventure” category (an even more extreme bikepacking-style challenge) and even trimmed about 20 km off the 360 km route for safety. Despite a clear forecast on race day, those earlier storms left their mark: the 360 became a muddy, slop-filled test of perseverance. “Muddy” might be an understatement – riders faced stretches of true hike-a-bike, carrying mud-caked bicycles up slippery clay ramps and through puddles the size of small ponds. It was chaotic and brutal, and the competitors absolutely loved it.
American gravel stalwart Peter Stetina emerged victorious in that soggy 360, but only after a rollercoaster of a day. “I am over the moon. I did not believe that this was ever possible after the start today,” Stetina said, describing how multiple mechanical failures early on left him seven minutes adrift. He battled back with fellow rider Rob Britton, the two chasing through the quagmire until they caught the leaders. Stetina’s secret weapon? “My secret – just embrace the suck” he revealed with a grin at the finish. In other words, when The Traka served up pain, he took an extra helping. “If anyone is… feeling like they are breaking, you just realise that you go through ups and downs the whole day… You just have to embrace the bad parts,” he advised. That philosophy could be The Traka’s motto. There are highs and euphoric moments on course – cresting a climb to a stunning vista, or linking up with a strong group and flying through a valley – but there are also inevitable lows where legs ache, the GPX seems endless, and the gravel “sucks” (sometimes literally, as mud). Embrace it all, and you’ll get through.
And at the end of that struggle, what a reward awaits. The finish back in Girona brings riders down from the hills and back along the river, where cheers echo as they cross under The Traka banner. Whether first or dead last, every finisher earns a cold beer, a hearty meal, and the right to swap war stories late into the evening. You might see the men’s 200 km winner, Petr Vakoč, clinking glasses with a mid-pack rider who just completed their first century ride, both united in exhaustion and exhilaration. That mix of competition and camaraderie is woven deep into The Traka’s fabric.
Girona: Ground Zero for Gravel Greatness
Why Girona? Spend a day here on your bicycle and you’ll understand. This city breathes cycling in every corner. Its location is a cyclist’s dream: tucked between the Pyrenees Mountains and the Costa Brava, Girona offers a little bit of everything. Smooth tarmac mountain climbs like Mare de Déu del Mont or Rocacorba have been a draw for roadies for years. But venture off the paved routes and an entire spiderweb of gravel and dirt tracks reveals itself – ancient Roman vias, farmers’ lanes, fire roads through cork forests, and goat paths over rolling hills. The Traka stitches many of these gems together, effectively handing you a greatest-hits tour of Girona’s gravel.
Beyond the terrain, there’s the atmosphere. Girona has the laid-back charm of a small city with the cosmopolitan buzz of a cycling capital. In the old town, medieval stone walls and cobbled lanes house cafes where pro cyclists rub shoulders with backpackers and locals out for their evening “passeig“. During The Traka weekend, the whole town seems to tune into the cycling vibe. On the eve of the race, you’ll find bike shops jam-packed with last-minute customers (thank goodness for those late-night mechanics), and gelato shops serving muscular folks in Lycra stocking up on carbs. English, Spanish, Catalan, Dutch, French – you hear it all spoken in the streets, a babble of excitement about the challenge to come.
Girona’s cycling community is famously welcoming. Group rides roll out every morning, and it’s not unusual to find yourself sharing a wheel with a world champion on a local chain gang. That sense of community and inclusivity peaks at The Traka. Amateurs start alongside former Tour de France racers; everyone is equal when the gravel kicks up. “The city, Girona, is incredible,” Petr Vakoč notes, praising not only the riding but the whole package of culture and support. Indeed, the race encourages participants to “relax in the old town, experience its culture, mix with its people, enjoy its gastronomy and, above all, cycle like you’ve never done before”. Many riders bring family or friends along for the trip, turning the race into a mini-vacation. Non-racers spend the day spectating at accessible points on the course or touring Girona’s famous cathedral (film buffs might recognise its steps from Game of Thrones), then everyone reunites for post-ride tapas and Cava. The lifestyle around The Traka is as much a draw as the race itself – it’s a chance to live the Girona cycling life for a long weekend.
And what a life it is. The region’s food alone deserves its own medal: hearty Catalan stews, fresh seafood by the coast, an endless array of pintxos and local wines. Little wonder riders often linger for days after the race, spinning their legs out on recovery rides to coffee shops by day and toasting a successful Traka by night. The line between racer and tourist blissfully blurs. This is the magnetism of Girona for gravel riders – a place where world-class cycling meets world-class living.
Tales from the Trail: Why Riders Love The Traka
While the clock does tick and results are logged, ask anyone who’s done The Traka and they’ll tell you the experience isn’t defined by the podium. It’s the stories that stick. Maybe it’s the memory of forming a small alliance with strangers to pull through a headwind section, each rider taking turns at the front, bonds forged in effort. Or that moment you crested a ridge at sunset (or sunrise!) and had to pause just to absorb the panorama of green valleys and distant blue Med. Or the laughter shared over a mechanical mishap – like the poor soul who blew out a tyre 1 km from the finish and literally jogged it in, bike on shoulder (a true story: ex-pro Paul Voss got a flat just before the 200 km finish in 2023 and ran his bike to the line to win ). These little dramas and triumphs are the lifeblood of gravel events, and The Traka delivers them in spades.
The riders who keep coming back often speak of The Traka with a kind of reverence. Two-time women’s 200 km champion Carolin Schiff set The Traka as a season goal not just once but twice – and achieved it. “It was really my goal to win it again,” she said after defending her title in 2024, crediting her endurance engine for a dominant solo ride. But even in victory, Schiff was quick to praise the competition and camaraderie, giving a nod to the young Danish rider, Klara Sofie Skovgard Hansen, who pushed her early on: “She did so great, she’s the future.” That mix of competitive respect and shared passion is emblematic of The Traka ethos. You race hard, but you celebrate others’ grit just as much as your own.
For former road pros like Vakoč, who’ve raced in the world’s most famous arenas, The Traka offers something refreshingly different. “The Traka, it’s absolutely amazing how it’s growing. Unbound has the history… The Traka – it has a huge advantage that the area is beautiful, the riding there is just incredible, the city, Girona, is incredible,” Vakoč enthused. And perhaps most tellingly, he compared it to gravel’s Holy Grail in the U.S. and found that he enjoys it more: “For me, it’s way more enjoyable to race there.” When a rider who nearly won Unbound (Vakoč was the 2023 Unbound runner-up) says he prefers Girona’s gravel, that’s saying something. Why? In his view, it comes down to fairness and fun: Kansas’s flint roads are notorious for slicing tires randomly, whereas in Girona, a bit more skill and strategy can shine through without “bad luck” deciding your day. Plus, as he reminds us, the scenery certainly doesn’t hurt.
The Magic of The Traka and Girona
As the sun sets on race day, casting a golden glow over Girona’s ancient rooftops, there’s a tangible sense of accomplishment and community in the air. One by one, the finishers trickle back to where it all began that morning. They arrive utterly spent – salt-crusted, caked in dust, and blissfully exhausted – but also utterly alive with emotion. Hugs are exchanged. Perhaps a tear or two. Certainly a lot of high-fives and handshakes. In the city’s central plaza, bikes lean against every wall while riders drape themselves in chairs at outdoor bars, raising glasses to what they’ve just done. The Traka medals around their necks jingle softly as they recount the day’s highlights: “Did you see that view at kilometre 120?” … “I nearly quit at the last feed zone, but then…” … “We bombed that descent so fast, it was insane!” Each story is different, yet all threads of the same rich tapestry.
In the end, The Traka distils what gravel riding is all about. It’s the thrill of racing and the beauty of adventure rolled into one. It’s suffering up a climb and then whooping with joy on the way down. It’s pushing yourself to the limit in a gorgeous place, knowing that at the end a warm community and a bowl of esmorzar (Catalan brunch) await. Girona provides the perfect stage – a city that opens its arms to cyclists – and The Traka provides the challenge that tests their hearts, legs, and resolve. Together, they’ve created something that feels almost magical.
In the words of one awed participant, Girona’s gravel extravaganza is nothing short of a “gravel paradise”. And like any paradise, once found, you’ll yearn to return. The Traka has firmly planted its flag on the gravel world map, not just as a race, but as an experience. As the last light fades and Girona’s streetlights flicker on, one thing is clear: The Traka’s mix of challenge and charm captures the very soul of gravel cycling. It turns riders into storytellers, and a simple race into a life-long memory. And that is the true magic of The Traka in Girona.
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